I Was There: The Opening of Belfast's First Ever Fleadh Cheoil na hΓireann
Today I went to the opening ceremony of Fleadh Cheoil na hÉireann 2026 — and I managed to get into the City Hall grounds for it. I wasn't going to stand outside and watch it on a big screen.
This is the first time in the event's 75-year history that it's been held in Belfast, so it genuinely felt like being part of something. I caught some of the dancing, then the speeches from the organisers, the First Minister and deputy First Minister, and the President of Ireland, Catherine Connolly. I'll be honest: I didn't know who the Irish president was before today — and I speak more Japanese than I speak Irish. The Fleadh has a way of reminding you of these things.
The ceremony itself wasn't too political, though one speaker couldn't resist getting a few digs in about Palestine and Trump, and there was a large pro-Palestine march through the city afterwards — the timing didn't seem like a coincidence. Belfast is less divided than it's ever been, but it's fair to say the Fleadh still won't feel like it's for everyone in this city. Maybe a week of music in shared streets is how that changes.
The best moment was simple: one of the speakers said it was good to be part of history, and then the whole crowd — me included — got to say "let the Fleadh begin."
Afterwards I walked around the city, and honestly this might have been my favourite part. Belfast pedestrianised is a different place: market stalls and food vans in the streets, car parks turned into beer gardens, music drifting out of everywhere. One of the side entries had been decorated with springs hanging from the ceiling. Years ago you'd have been scared to walk down an entry like that. Now it's an art installation. That, more than any speech, shows you how much Belfast has changed.
The Fleadh runs until Sunday 9 August, with sessions, competitions and concerts across the whole city — and Belfast gets to do it all again in 2027. If today was anything to go by, it's going to be a good week.